How to Care and Clean Wool Clothing?

Wool is synonymous with colder days and is an absolute winter staple. After all, it’s long lasting, durable and oh-so warm.

At Son de Flor, we spend a great deal of time talking about linen. We love its beautiful wrinkles, its natural character and the way it seems to become more comfortable with every passing year. But living in Lithuania, where autumn can be rather determined, and winter occasionally lasts longer than anyone invited it to, we have also developed a very special appreciation for wool. After all, even our favorite linen dresses need a warm companion when temperatures begin to fall! 

With our Nida wool knitwear, jackets and merino wool base layers becoming part of the Son de Flor wardrobe, we have been receiving more questions about caring for wool. Can it go into the washing machine? Why does wool sometimes smell strange after washing? How do you prevent a favorite sweater from shrinking? And is it really true that Lithuanian women sometimes take their wool clothing outside into the freezing winter air to freshen it? 

We thought it was time to gather everything into one proper guide, because beautiful natural clothing should be enjoyed, not feared every time laundry day comes around.

The Golden Rule of Wool Care: Wash Less, Air More 

Wool requires gentle care, which is kind of what slow living is about. No need to rush. Simply follow a few easy tips and enjoy your cozy woolen garments when you’re wearing them over linen clothing or other fabrics, and stay warm even when it’s really chilly outside.

Wool clothing generally needs less frequent washing than many other fabrics because wool fibres naturally resist odours and manage moisture. Between washes, airing your garment may be enough to refresh it. 

Unlike many synthetic materials, wool can absorb moisture vapour and retain certain odour molecules within its fibre structure, helping clothing remain comfortable and fresh for longer. 

Of course, that doesn't mean wool never needs washing. A merino base layer worn directly against your skin will need more frequent cleaning than a wool jacket worn over several layers. And if you spill your morning coffee down your favourite sweater, well, fresh air alone is unlikely to perform a miracle. 

But for ordinary wear, we recommend beginning with the simplest solution: let your wool breathe. 

Hang a woven wool jacket on a suitable hanger or lay a knitted sweater flat in a well-ventilated place. Give it a few hours away from the wardrobe, and you may discover that it is perfectly happy to be worn again. 

Less washing also means less water, less energy and less mechanical wear on the fibres. Sometimes the gentlest way to care for something is simply to leave it alone.

How to Wash Wool Clothes in a Washing Machine 

You can machine wash wool only when the garment's care label permits it.

Before washing, check the care instructions, as a delicate wool sweater, a structured jacket and a superwash merino base layer may all require different treatment. Choose a wool or very gentle programme, use a wool-safe detergent and follow the recommended temperature limits.

For machine-washable wool, follow these steps: 

  • Check the garment's washing and drying instructions. 

  • Turn the garment inside out, where practical, and close any buttons or zippers. 

  • Wash with similar colours, leaving enough room in the drum for gentle movement. 

  • Select a dedicated wool programme with minimal agitation. 

  • Use a small amount of mild, wool-specific detergent. 

  • Choose a gentle spin setting, following the garment label and washing machine instructions. 

  • Remove the garment promptly and dry it according to its care label.

A 20°C or 30°C wool programme may be appropriate for many machine-washable garments, but the correct temperature is always the one specified by the manufacturer.

And here is something worth remembering: wool doesn't shrink simply because it gets wet. Felting shrinkage can happen when moisture and mechanical agitation cause the tiny scales on wool fibres to interlock. Heat can make the process worse, but even cool water won't necessarily protect a delicate garment from an unsuitable washing cycle.

So please don't assume that selecting the lowest temperature automatically makes every wash safe. 

How to Hand Wash Wool Sweaters and Delicate Knitwear 

If your garment is labelled hand wash only, fill a clean basin with lukewarm or cool water, according to its care instructions, and add a little wool detergent. 

Submerge the garment gently and allow the water to do most of the work. Avoid vigorous rubbing, scrubbing or twisting. After a short soak, rinse carefully and press out the excess water without wringing. 

One of our favourite methods is to lay the washed sweater on a clean towel, roll the towel gently to absorb moisture and then reshape the garment before drying it flat. 

It takes a little longer than throwing everything into the washing machine, admittedly, but far less time than dealing with a favorite sweater that’s shrunk beyond recognition.

Why Does Wool Smell Bad After Washing? 

This is one of the questions that inspired us to write this guide. 

Recently, a customer contacted us after washing her wool jacket on a gentle 20°C wool programme. She had followed the instructions, left the jacket to dry and was understandably upset to discover a very strong, unpleasant smell afterwards. 

And we understand her concern. When you invest in a beautiful wool garment, you certainly don't expect laundry day to produce such an unwelcome surprise. 

Wool can develop a noticeable smell when wet, but a strong or persistent unpleasant odour is not something you should automatically accept as normal. 

There are several possible explanations:

1. The natural scent of wet wool

Wool is an animal fibre, made primarily of keratin. Depending on the fibre, processing and finishing methods, some garments develop a distinctive earthy or sheep-like smell when wet.

This may be more noticeable immediately after washing and often becomes less apparent as the garment dries.

Lanolin, the natural wax found in sheep's fleece, can contribute to wool's characteristic scent, although most clothing wool has been scoured and contains much less lanolin than raw fleece. It would therefore be misleading to assume that lanolin is responsible for every unusual smell. 

2. Moisture trapped inside the garment 

Thicker wool fabrics can take longer to dry than expected. 

A jacket may feel dry on the outside while retaining moisture around seams, pockets, collars or other thicker areas. Poor airflow and prolonged dampness can contribute to musty odours. 

This is why proper drying matters just as much as washing. 

3. Detergent or washing machine residue 

Using too much detergent, choosing a product unsuitable for wool or insufficient rinsing can leave residues behind. 

Sometimes the washing machine itself is responsible. Detergent drawers, rubber seals and drums can accumulate residues that affect the smell of freshly washed clothing. 

4. Fabric finishing or production residues 

Wool fabrics may undergo washing, dyeing, softening and finishing processes during manufacturing. 

In some cases, an unusual smell becomes noticeable only after the fabric is wet. The precise cause cannot be determined from the smell alone, and a persistent or particularly strong odour may need to be investigated by the manufacturer. 

How to Remove an Unpleasant Smell from Wool 

If your wool sweater or jacket develops a strange smell after washing, our first recommendation is wonderfully simple: don't panic, and don't immediately wash it again. 

Start with these steps. 

  • First, let the garment dry completely. Follow the care label and make sure air can circulate around the fabric. Check thicker areas, including seams and collars, for trapped moisture. 
  • Second, give it some fresh air. A dry, well-ventilated place, away from direct sunlight and rain, can help release everyday odours. 
  • Third, check your detergent and washing machine. If the garment was washed with an unsuitable product or the machine has developed an unpleasant smell, that may offer a clue. 
  • Finally, contact the manufacturer if the odour persists. If the smell is unusually strong, remains after complete drying or appears to be coming from the fabric itself, ask for advice before attempting further cleaning. 

We would be cautious about popular home remedies involving vinegar, baking soda, strong fragrances or prolonged soaking. Although these methods are often suggested online, they are not suitable for every wool fabric, dye, finish or garment construction. 

At Son de Flor, we would much rather help investigate an unusual problem than have you risk damaging a garment you love.

The Lithuanian Winter Trick: Can Cold Air Freshen Wool? 

Now, here comes one of our favourite little traditions from Lithuania. 

We are rather familiar with cold weather here. And while we don't always appreciate freezing temperatures when trying to get out of bed in January, they do offer one rather lovely opportunity for refreshing our wool clothing. 

On a crisp, dry winter day, we sometimes take wool garments outside for a little fresh air. 

The idea is simple: rather than washing a sweater that isn't dirty but could use some refreshing, allow it to spend a little time in the clean outdoor air. 

Cold, dry air and good ventilation can help some everyday odours dissipate, and the garment may feel wonderfully fresh afterwards. 

You might also have heard of the old tradition of refreshing wool in snow. Such practices exist in northern climates, but for clothing, we prefer the safer and simpler option of dry winter air. Wet snow can soak the fabric and create another drying problem altogether. 

And one important distinction: freezing wool does not reliably disinfect it or remove every unpleasant smell. Cold air can be a useful refreshing ritual, but it is not a substitute for washing when a garment is genuinely dirty. 

Still, there is something wonderfully satisfying about bringing a favourite wool sweater back inside after a little winter holiday on the balcony. 

What Is Superwash Wool?

You may have come across the term superwash wool, particularly when shopping for merino wool base layers. 

Superwash wool is wool that has been treated to reduce felting and shrinkage during washing. The treatment modifies the way the microscopic scales on the fibres interact, making the material more suitable for machine washing. 

Some superwash treatments alter the fibre surface, while others use specialised coatings or combinations of processes. 

The result is wool that retains many of its natural benefits while becoming easier to care for in everyday life. 

For our Son de Flor merino base layers, developed together with Lithuanian manufacturer Utenos Trikotažas, we have chosen superwash-treated merino wool to make these practical wardrobe companions easier to maintain. 

We rather like the thought of wool that understands the realities of modern life. Beautiful, natural and comfortable, but also aware that its owner may have children to collect, meetings to attend, a business to run or absolutely no desire to spend her Sunday hand washing four shirts.

Superwash doesn't mean that anything goes, however. Always follow the care instructions of the finished garment, including the recommended temperature and drying method. 

And remember that not every wool piece in the Son de Flor collection is made from superwash wool.

How to Dry Wool Without Stretching or Shrinking It ?

Knitted wool sweaters should generally be dried flat, while some woven wool jackets can be dried on suitable hangers if their care labels permit it. 

This distinction is particularly important because wet wool becomes heavier, and the weight of the water can stretch delicate knitwear. 

For sweaters and cardigans, gently remove excess water, lay the garment on a clean towel and reshape it to its original dimensions. Allow it to dry naturally, turning or changing the towel if needed to improve airflow. 

Woven wool jackets may require a different approach, depending on their structure, lining and finishing. 

Avoid drying wool directly on radiators, near strong heat or in intense sunlight. And unless the care label specifically allows tumble drying, let the garment dry naturally. 

A little patience here can save a great deal of disappointment later. 

Wool and Linen: A Friendship Worth Keeping 

Perhaps our affection for wool comes from the same place as our love for linen.

Both are natural fibres with distinctive personalities. Neither needs to pretend to be perfectly uniform, and both reward us for understanding how they behave.

Linen brings lightness, breathability and that effortless feeling we love so much. Wool brings warmth, softness and comfort when the days grow shorter.

A Nida cardigan over a linen dress, a wool jacket on a chilly morning or a merino base layer underneath your favorite outfit can help you enjoy the same beloved pieces throughout much more of the year.

And caring for these garments doesn't need to become another complicated task on an already busy list.

Read the label. Wash gently when necessary. Let wool breathe. Dry it properly. Store it thoughtfully.

We believe that the more we understand the things we own, the better we become at looking after them. And perhaps, with a little care, they can accompany us through many more seasons, and journeys.

With love from Lithuania,

Son de Flor 🌿